I. Kites

Introduction

I. Kites

Consider a Delta-Conyne (shown above). Choosing the right type and size of kite is critical to taking aerial photos. A couple of things to look for are superior lift and stability. The best design I've found is the Delta-Conyne (DC). Mine have stayed up when nothing else wanted to fly. Others claim success using Codies, Rokkakus, and French military kites. An airfoil (like a frameless wind pocket) can have great lift, but when the wind dies down, it drops like a rock, whereas a DC tends to glide down.

Add tails to your kite. I attach a pair of 15-foot nylon tails to the center of my DCs. They seem to help stabilize the kite and keep it pointed into the wind. They also act as a drag when the wind stops--this keeps the kite from gliding directly overhead and then dropping.

Shop around when looking for kites. There are lots of good sources that offer a variety of features, from price to service. I often buy supplies from Into the Wind because I like their catalog. Finally, learn to sew. You'll spend a lot of your spare time mending small holes and tears.


Taped tube in leading edge	Size is as important as design. A kite needs to be big enough to lift a camera without pulling you away. I use two sizes of DCs: for light winds I use a 13.5-foot wide DC, and for heavy winds I use a 9.5-foot wide DC. Both my DCs happen to be made by Sun Oak. Although I've found none better, there are a couple of things I'd change. First, the 9.5-foot DC came with basswood spars in its leading edges that broke in rough landings. I replaced them with fiberglass tubing and have had no problems since. The second thing I changed were the two pieces of tubing that simply slide together to support each leading edge on the 13.5-foot DC. Once while flying this kite in a strong wind, these two pieces of tubing came apart. The kite and my camera went into a wild spin. Ever since then, I secure these two pieces with masking tape as I assemble the kite (shown).